Background:
I had already purchased a Roland DP-10 Half-Damper pedal and wanted to use it with Yamaha synths. I didn't need to use it on a Roland anymore so I've decided to simply rewire the internals to make the Roland pedal match the Yamaha FC3 (or FC3A).
After analyzing the wiring on the Roland and Yamaha FC-3 half damper pedals, I modified the Roland pedal as described below.
Note that both Roland and Yamaha half-damper pedals use a similar potentiometer (~10k-ohms). So AFAIK, there's no real risk damaging the internals of the Yamaha synths. In any case, do this at your own risk.
Preparation:
To open the pedal, use a screwdriver and remove all the screws.
Modification:
Take note of the wiring before the modification:
- White (Tip)
- Black (Sleeve)
- Red (Ring)
With a soldering iron, rewire as follows:
- Red (Ring)
- White (Tip)
- Black (Sleeve)
Represented logically:
Testing:
To be sure I rewired and reassembled the pedal correctly, I plugged the modified DP-10 into my Yamaha CK-61 and MODX M8 and started a MIDI monitoring app on my Mac. I was able to confirm the full range of values from 0 to 127.
See Also:
- Need help with damper pedals (Pianoteq Forum)
- Korg DS1H Half-Damper Pedal NG? (Yamaha Synth Forum)
- Motif XS8 support for Roland DP-10 half damping pedal (Yamaha Motif Community)
I read at the below link that :
ReplyDeleteIf we consider the order like
1) wiper of the pot
2) +
3) ground
Roland DP-10 half-damper and expression pedals like EV-5 are
1) tip
2) ring
3) sleeve
Yamaha FC7 expression pedal is
1) ring
2) tip
3) sleeve
Yamaha FC3/FC3A half damper is
1) ring
2) sleeve
3) tip
ref: https://forums.musicplayer.com/topic/177295-roland-dp-10-in-continuous-mode-doesnt-work-with-montage-8/
OK good, thanks for the info and the reference. This matches my handwritten diagram in the above post. It also helps to confirm that my rewiring was accurate. I'm still using my Roland DP-10 on my Yamaha MODX M8 and it works like a charm!
ReplyDelete